Delhi to Paris to Atlanta to Sarasota

Going home! Long waits at airports but heading home, where toothbrushes can be rinsed in tap water, where fresh vegetables can be eaten with skins on, where sidewalks are for people and not solely for cows and dogs and streets are for cars not cows and dogs and people. But how I will miss the colors and sounds and colors and devotion and colors and open hearts and colors of India!

To quote my luggage tag: See the world, Come home for love.

Back to Delhi

We took the expressway to Delhi and saw few cars few trucks between Agra and the outskirts of Delhi. Jaypee owns the truck stops (tuck shops?)--they are becoming as ubiquitous as Tata. We did see lots of buffalo, cattle, camels on the farm roads parallel to the expressway however. Best of all, the expressway was SMOOTH! No pot holes no speed bumps! New construction everywhere. India is growing by leaps and bounds. Economy expanding while rest of world stagnates.
We went back to Connaught Place for lunch and ate at the same restaurant as our first day. Got a magnificent plate of spinach crisps, which were like kale chips. Loaded with garlic. Yum. GI system healed!
And a final bit of shopping. Rupees cannot leave the country, after all. It is the law. Saw Rikhi Ram music store where Paul and George bought sitars etc but couldn't get Marcia interested. Best proof that she is worn out!
And finally a group dinner, sharing entrees (no one was really hungry) and closure conversations. Making preliminary plans for reunion at Convocation in August. Bonded tightly over past 30 days of spiritual highs, antibiotics and antidiarrheals, and hours of bouncing on the bus. We have become a family.

Agra

Okay, the JayPee Palace is shabbier than I first thought. And while I couldn't confirm that Trump stays here, I did confirm that Pres Clinton did back in 2000. But the chair has a large stain, the caulking is messed up on the tub, and the wires are beginning to detach from the lights. Still, the rooms are huge, and the marble and wood details are exquisite. But the marble floors and walls also make the long corridors into long echo chambers all night long. The luxury is very superficial!
Today is Taj day. We got up before dawn and entered the grounds at sunrise. As majestic as before. An amazing monument in so many ways. Our guide for the day was a local man who is Muslim and an authority on both the Taj. And on the Mughal Empire. Excellent guide. Learned a lot from him even though third trip to Taj.
After breakfast we ventured on to the Agra Red Fort. Same guide. This fort was the home of the family that built the Taj, and while it was louted many times over, enough of its original grandeur is still there to give a good sense of the style of the day. Fascinating day.
The Agra Fort is a UNESCO historical site. I have been very impressed by each UNESCO site I have seen, and this was no exception.
Later in the day we went to learn about making hand knotted carpets and marble inlays. Both processes required a skill level that few possess. Saw a small tray with so many tiny inlays that it was worth tens of thousands of dollars here in India, and hundreds of thousands in the US. And same with carpets: $3800 here in India and $38000 in the US. Great bargains, but resisted urges to buy! Next to glass blowing, probably the two art forms that interest me the most.
Lastly, we finished the day with a group dinner at Priyas.

Delhi to Agra via Mathura

On the road again--our song this past week.

After our open air dinner last night on the terrace at the grill, we slept in and had a leisurely departure for Agra at 9am. Things were going along just fine until after a tea stop (which was in actuality a coffee stop at Cafe Coffee Day, India's answer to Starbucks), we were easing back into the "flow" of traffic behind rickshaws and bullock carts when our van was pulled over. After much checking of documents and many beads of sweat upon our drivers heads, they were issued a ticket for speeding. Maybe compared to a snail. It was an Indian police shakedown, which is quite common. Has happened on other trips. Our guide several years back told us then that when they see a van of westerners, tickets are issued (the driver must pay on the spot) because they know full well that the fine while steep for the locals is not much in dollars and Euros, and the westerners will take pity on the drivers and usually reimburse them. So it is in fact a shakedown of the tourists. And of course that is exactly what we did.   

And on we went.

Next stop Vrindavan. Another bribe at a check point to get beyond a certain point, and then a short walk to the temple which was not going to reopen for four hours. But wonder of wonders, there were dozens of stalls selling ribbon garlands. All sizes. I had been looking for these for three and a half weeks, both for myself and for our circle's Last Smile picture. At last! So I was more than satisfied with the outcome of this outing! And none more were to be found the rest of the day.

Mathura. Krishna's birthplace. One of my favorite places. We we able to loiter for awhile in the prison cell area, and then spent a good amount of time in the temple which with its beautiful muralled ceiling one of our group called the the Sistine Chapel of Hinduism. Truly spectacular. Very sacred space.

And I discovered that if you treat the kids hocking their wares like monkeys (without the foot stump) they will leave you alone.

And now we are at another Jaycee hotel which is obscene in its opulence. Way beyond my comfort zone. Keep expecting to run into The Donald. Had to Clif bar for dinner rather than pay another $25-30 US for a meal I would only eat 25% of. They actually gave us a map with our keys so that we could find our rooms.

Now bedtime for a predawn departure tomorrow.

On the road again

Spent the day driving from Rishikesh back to Delhi. At the very end of the drive our driver lost it and shouted at a motorcycle. We did not get an exact translation from our guide. On tortuous mountain roads and in city traffic our driver remained so cool and calm, but Delhi at 5pm put him over the edge. I would have lost it days ago!

Day was a success. All bodily fluids remained in their intended compartments. Cannot ask for more than that!

Rishikesh and shopping

It is not much fun shopping when you have a queasy stomach and are weak. But I did it with the group and did find a couple of little souvenirs. Cheap but meaningful, like a rudraksha bracelet. No pictures. Monkeys on bridge. No longer cute; more like the Wizard of Oz. Had images of swinging at them with a long stick and knocking them all off, as I hummed to myself the Angry Birds theme. So much for nonviolence!

Haridwar

Sick sick sick again, this time GI. Two imodium day. Went out with group but whoozy and weak. Think it might have been the carrot dessert last night.
Visited two old temples, both by cable car. The views were spectacular, but in temple one the monkeys were incredibly aggressive. I had several close encounters of my own but thanks my shouts and foot stomps, and those of Fred and an Indian gentleman, I remained the proud possessor of my coke. I saw several other people who were not so fortunate however as the monkeys grabbed and ripped open their puja offerings.
In the second temple, the people were caged in and the monkeys watched but couldn't get to us. The priests however could, and they were just as aggressive. Nothing like the serene ashrams we have been visiting.
Would not return to either, despite  the wonderful rides up and back.

Rishikesh

Vashishta Cave and temple--extraordinary experience. We were told the cave used to be more than 20km but because of earthquakes etc over the past 3-4 thousand years, it is now much smaller. Much much smaller. Has served as sort of a hostel for wandering saints for millennia and the vibrations are there to prove it.
Next we walked down to the beach to put our feet in Ganges again. The water was crystal clear, and coming straight down from the mountains here.
Then to the Jesus cave up on the bank again. This is one of the  caves, as the story goes, that Jesus stayed in during his lost years (12-30 yrs old) when he is believed to have studied and taught in India.
Going cave to river to cave we of course encountered the requisite cows and spent some time feeding them out of our hands. Cool tongues and very gentle.
We had passed on our drive a sign that said "Kriya Yoga Ashram" so of course we wanted to to stop on our way back. Set up by followers of Sri Yuketeswar. I finally found the biography of Lahiri Mahasaya that I have wanted for so many years (but had been unwilling to pay $75 to the buy from Amazon.) We were received warmly and invited to meditate in their chapel.
We stopped in the main part of Rishishek, went to an iconic restaurant across the foot bridge and discovered that all the shops and cafes were on strike. Swamiji has been working with India's officials as a mediator, to clean up the Ganges and Yamuna rivers. The plan agreed upon would require the shop keepers along the banks to relocate at government expense into a greener setting. The shop keepers don't want change. So we had ice cream for lunch.
At the end of our walk along the Ganges, we arrived at the ashram the Beatles used to stay at, now in ruins. Beautiful setting.
And to end the day, Jyosna who of course knew Swamiji (from Pittsburgh way back when) arranged for us to attend the Aarti with Parmarth Niketan group in VIP sitting. We were able to circle the butter lamps and participate in the Aarti as much as we wanted to. And afterwards we were invited back to the ashram for private darshan and satsanga with Swami Chitananda Saraswati. Very loving and powerful presence.

Out of Himalayas to Rishikesh

Mountains clouded and weeping as we left. So were we.
Raniket for snacks-50 different  forms of masala chips and salt.
Key West size lizard crossed road-broad, no pretty markings.
Two pic stops for hill town shots.
Gas stop next to major rock slide.
School bus full of kids screeching brakes on mountain turn almost hit us on curve-we were stopped and pulled over.
Road washed out majorly in several areas in mountains.
Tree across the road on far side of turn.
Corbett preserve. Lunch tame elephants wild monkeys deer
Pines yielded to broad flat leaves, fl type
Much traffic many bad roads.
Rishikesh 12 hrs later with hot water and warm air!

Old Durga temple and YSS Dwarahat ashram

Immediately after breakfast we jumped back in the bus, and set off for the 3000 year old Durga temple, one of the oldest living temples in India. After purchasing our prayer flags/offerings, we began our ascent up the 490 stairs to the temple. The stairs to the temple had been remade since my prior visit and were now even with a new railing and a canopy all the way to the top of the mountain. The old temple remained the same: brightly painted, majestic views all around, two priests in attendance. I was able to meditate under Lahiri Mahasaya's tree at the tiny Shiva shrine, and am bringing home two prayer flags blessed there, for Tom and myself. The young men working on continuing the canopy up to the temple proper insisted that I take their pictures, and they took one of me in true Indian fascination with swapping photos! Westerners are still rare here.
And the snow capped mountains are still visible!
From the temple, we continued on to the YSS ashram in nearby Dwarahat, where Swami Nirvananada gave us a tour of the new retreat rooms and remodeled dining area. The eye clinic begins tomorrow and they expect to be housing over 80 people including both medical staff and surgical patients. My cough cut my meditation in the chapel short, so I went outside, sucked on some hard candy and continued my meditation on the porch. When I opened my eyes, I saw a huge (chimpanzee size) wild monkey sitting on the wall directly across from me and about four feet away, looking back at me. We looked at each other about a minute, and I swear he nodded at me before he turned to walk away along the wall. A little unnerving but wonderful all at the same time.
Meals outside under the canopy again. The food is so good here that no one misses heat and hot water!

Babaji's cave and Suka Devi Temple

A day of climbing on sacred mountains. Spring colors surrounded us.

After breakfast outside under the canopy, we drove as far as we could toward Babaji's cave. The van driver performed feats that defied imagination. I swear he was driving with two wheels on air most of the way on the half-lane mountain roads. With the road "improvements" our hike was cut in half. But we still had to do the last 1000 feet up on our own, from 7500 to 8500 feet elevation. I had some altitude problems (dizziness, headache, winded quickly)  earlier in the morning but did much better on the climb (caffeine at breakfast all around.) And the climb was easier than five years ago. Many more switch-backs, many more stone stairs and pathways, fewer areas of loose pebbles and dirt. Plus professional signs have replaced the old dots and tiny arrows. A lot of TLC has been given in the past few years to make the cave more accessible. Still, the climb was a challenge, yet all of us made it to our goal. We meditated at the cave and then had prashad at the shrine below the cave. We met two young men headed up as we headed down.

Then this evening we climbed yet again. This time from the retreat up to the peak of the mountain where we had a 360 degree view of the foothills and snow capped Himalayas. Fortunately, Satish our guide misled us about the severity of the climb or most of us would have declined to go! It was worth every step, to watch the sun set from there, at the small temple at the very top of the peak. Every few seconds the colors of the snow caps would shift hues from white to cream to yellow to pink. Breathtaking. Truly breathtaking. Back at 8500 feet.

Nainatal to Dunagiri

Woke up this AM in beautiful Nainital, in an old English inn (once a YMCA hostel) overlooking the lake. Coffee on the terrace, breakfast on the lawn. Joy!
Then, once the bus was loaded, we headed into the town to visit the Devi temple and for quick shopping for shawls. Back onto the bus and on the road up up and up.
We drove past farm after farm. White buildings with blue doors and shutters, deep deep red rhododendrons  growing as trees. Steeply terraced fields with cows and goats on each level. Spring flowers and fruit trees are in bloom everywhere. And we saw what was either a large coyote or small wolf. Whatever India's version is. Rust colored like a red fox but long legs, very narrow torso, and canine head.
In Dwarahat, Marty became suddenly ill (syncopal event) but recovered within a few hours. And wonder of wonders, we were able to see the snow capped Himalayas! Usually they are hidden all day this time of year but not today. We could see them all afternoon. The picture is through the bus window--hoping to get better ones tomorrow.
The retreat we are staying at  in Dunagiri is almost finished. Our rooms and the views of the hills and mountains are spectacular but we have to get hot water from the kitchen for bathing. The rooms are stone and wood and modern. Wonderful layouts. The meals are gourmet vegetarian. The heat is from a wood stove. The outdoor temps are frigid!  Our hosts do not speak much English but fortunately we have Jyoshna with us who is bilingual. Meals are outside under canopies.  I think we are going to enjoy this very much.

Delhi night

Back in Delhi from Ranchi. The airport has much more to appreciate when you don't arrive totally jet lagged!
Despite what you might have been told, adventure is overrated. We went shopping. Surprise. Rose fell flat on some uneven pavement (she is okay) and  Marty had her money stolen by a kid in the shopping area.  We had gone over to the state stores at Connaught to look around. The kid must have been watching her: an older western woman who had wandered off alone, made a purchase, saw where she put her money in the front pocket of her purse. He did a bump and run, and took her money (300 dollars) with him.
What the kid did not know was that Marty was with a group with a State certified guide. She let out a scream, police and Satish came quickly, and the whole crowd at the bus stop became involved. Much shouting again. They knew the boy, and the police know where he lives. There is a chance that some of the money might be recovered. A slight chance.
In the meantime, Marty is choosing to react with an "oh my" instead of an "Oh my God!" She has a plethora of new material for her next book, And so it goes.
Back at the hotel we ate dinner in a very high end restaurant. I ordered the risotto (at American prices) and it was the best I had ever had. Felt like I had been transported magically to a plaza in Verona!
BTW saw Delhi's Starbucks. Lines (of young kids) out the door and down the block waiting to get in. Nescafe beware, freshly ground coffee has arrived!

Delhi Belly (not me!) And on to Nainital

Fred has Delhi belly, ironically, in Delhi! But breakfast is staying put and we are off on a long road trip to Nainital.

We traveled on divided highways, but with so much construction, half the time the other side is closed. We were making good time until we got stuck behind a slow moving vehicle. A horse drawn cart. On an interstate. Sigh. At least it was headed in the correct direction. That cannot be taken for granted.

It took nearly 12 hrs to reach our hotel in Nainital, and this time we got up the final hill without blowing the transmission. YAY! We can see our breath, way up the hill overlooking the lake made from one of Sita's tears. I have no doubt that this was my home in a previous life. My spirit soars here. It feels so familiar. And I can breathe for the first time in a week.

The mountain air is so clean. Heaven sent. AND CELL COVERAGE!
At least for tonight. Tomorrow higher into the hills.

Last Day Ranchi. Friday

This is our last day in Ranchi.
Three members of our group who might not make it to Convocation have joined a silent retreat here for part of the day. The rest of the group, all of whom now have a hotel room to themselves, also had a partial day of silence but in air conditioning. I chose AC! After one last outing to the Kashmiri store where once again a member of our group shopped for museum quality shawls, I did return to the ashram grounds. I wanted one last meditation in PY's room before leaving. We are all meeting up for the evening meditation and supper here, but after our late at afternoon "snack" of dosas, I'm not sure I can eat again!
The dosas pictures are in my camera, but trust me they are humongous.  Subway would have been shocked and put to shame.
We are having to check out of the world's best hotel. Every day they have been delivering complimentary Lays potato chirps, masala cheetos, and sodas to our room. Complimentary chips and soda! American hotels, are you paying attention???
Oops, saw a mosquito. Time to go.

Saris

We did it! Jyoshna helped pleat us into our saris,  and we did our exercises and meditated for several hours (and took two tuk-tuk rides) with only one safety pin mishap (not mine, but Rose found her pin on the ground just in the knick of time.)

No way to describe being part of a Mahasamadhi service in Ranchi. Won't even try.

Ranchi. PY Mahasamadhi

Ashram retreat again. Again, opportunities for unlimited meditation in Yogananda's bedroom and at the Mandir.

Because today is the anniversary of Yogananda's Mahasamadhi, the YSS monks opened the ashram grounds to any and all local nuns and monks, to enjoy the gardens (which are the best I've yet seem in India) and to then be served lunch by the monastics here, and receive a gift of fabric (yards of) to clothe themselves for another year. The majority were from Vedanta, both nuns and monks. Some Vishnu priests were present, the others I couldn't identify. A few looked like wandering sadhus.

Wouldn't be wonderful if western churches did the same? Honor each other on their holy days or special days of observance? On Luther's birthday the Lutherans could throw a party for the Pentacostals, and so on. Think it would work?

Ate lunch at the ashram, returned to the hotel to rest in in a few hours will attempt to assemble a sari. Wish me luck! Three hour meditation tonight!

Two observations: first, sidewalks are for dogs and drying cow dung. Have yet to see people on them in Ranchi. Two, if you get into a rickshaw you must immediately pull out your mobile and at least pretend to be talking to someone.

Ranchi

Started the day walking over to the Ranchi YSS Ashram for the AM meditation. Yes, I am upright again! Hacking but upright.
Was able to once again visit the Mandir, to meditate in Yogananda's bedroom, and also where Ma meditated and spoke. It seems like yesterday that I was here doing the same thing, not 5 years ago. The grounds show a lot of hard work. New construction is underway. And it still feels like home, exactly like Mother Center in LA.  So nice to be back in the place that Yogananda loved so much.
The afternoon was another shopping trip. As usual I was more of an observer than a participant, except for a purchase of a 50 rupee Ganesh (one US dollar). Did learn a lot about Kashmiri shawls--what an art.

Arrive Ranchi

We flew to Ranchi today. I'm sure things happened but I was too sick to notice. The All-India respiratory infection. Arrived at hotel, wrote Tom a "poor poor pitiful me" email, turned on BBC and slept for 7 hours.
Did meet at the airport an American Vedanta Sanyasi (sp? Don't really care) on her way back to Santa Barbara where she serves. 
And our room fronts onto the train station. We are asking for a change. As gentle as the truck horns are, the piercing screech of the train whistle came as a surprise and with a dB level to which no one should ever be exposed! Even through the double paned heat resistant glass.
Tomorrow will bring better things, I just know it!

Serampore (Sri Y) and Mother Teresa

And we are all on Z-packs. Fortunately all we have to do is ask for the medication we want at a pharmacy, no Rx needed. So between that and Web MD we are set. We all have colds. Even our Indian driver. We blame the dust and smoky air, he probably blames us.
Off we went anyway. Serampore, where Yogananda spent his years with Swami Sri Yukteswar before coming to the US. Old narrow streets again. First to the mandir for Sri Y erected in what had been his yard/courtyard.  The house next door, where he lived and had his ashram, now belongs to distant family and is not open to YSS/SRF. Look at the picture below showing the local YSS sites--we saw them all. Easy walk. My favorite was the old banyan tree where Babaji appeared to Sri Y. The air roots have grown down around some very old Shiva lingums, and even through the wall of the house.
We met by chance a YSS member who was tearing down his house brick by brick and rebuilding it into a modern home with guest rooms for people coming to see the YSS shrines and holy spots. He took us over to Serampore College to see where Yogananda received his BA, without attending many classes. Wonder how parents tell that story to their kids!
In the afternoon we drove into Kolkata proper, and I frankly would be a very happy to never do that again! Like the Kumbh all over again, only it stays like that day in and day out. Yuck.
We did go to Mother Teresa's crypt and her powerful energy is still there, so Kolkata wasn't totally bad. Two of the nuns were being sent off to America (we didn't learn where) while we were there and the girls sang them on their way. M Teresa has always been one of my heroes, ever since hearing her "give me the babies" speech in Scranton.  The rose pedals I received from her crypt will have a place on honor when I return home.
Now we are packing for an AM flight to Ranchi. I love the  Dakshineswar ashram, but after today am happy to say "goodbye" to Kolkata!

Sunday in Dakshineswar, Yogananda's attic room!

My day has been sleep! Courtesy of Zyrtec for my throat. But the rest of the group attended the Sunday mediation service in the ashram chapel, and were joined by hundreds from the local community. Our room is only steps from the chapel. The overflow crowd were sitting on the patio (which was also full) and the service was broadcast outside for them as well, so I was able to attend from my bed. The best of both worlds for me! The service ended with the presiding monk offering prasad to any and all who wished, and this was everyone. Even me, sleepy eyed and stumbling along.
After the service, the ashram fed lunch to all who attended who wished to stay. Some of us got places at one of the many tables; others sat on mats on the floor. All in silence. So much harmony here.
The late afternoon included plans to visits P Yogananda's childhood home, as well as Vivekananda's home and the ashram of the Levitating Saint from the AY. In true Indian style a flat tire threw our schedule out the window. So, again in true Indian style, everyone simply got out of the car and went for tea.
At last: tea over, tire fixed and we stop first to visit Swami Vivekananda's restored home and museum. Next, into old old Kolkata to see the home and ashram of the Levitating Saint of the AY, Nagendra Hath Bhaduri, where we were able to meditate and talk with one of the monks. Special holy place.
And then to Yogananda's home at 4 Garpar Rd. We were shown inside by the current resident, Yogananda's great niece-in-law. We walked throughout the house which still has many of the same objects it had when he lived there. And as we walked she told us family stories that are not published. We actually meditated in his little attic meditation room! After the tour, we gathered in the kitchen to look at more pictures, hear more stories, and for prasad. If you were fortunate to meet her and her husband at Convocation, then you know that the more stories she tells, the more energized she becomes. If our guide had not drawn the evening to a close we would probably still be there happily meditating and listening and meditating. A very special evening indeed! 

Day 7 Kali Temple Dakshineswar

After AM meditation and breakfast, we headed on foot to the Kali Temple, about 20 minutes from here. I'm very glad that Marty insisted that we go early because once we got there, the direct sun inside the temple was intense, bouncing off the stones and pavement. And the temple was mobbed. Lines of people with their flowers and food offerings were everywhere. This temple was very important to Sri Ramakrishna and has been beautifully supported/restored  mostly by his followers. It is on the banks of the Ganges (called Hooghly here) and has its own bathing ghat. Inside the temple is the main temple for Kali, 12 small Shiva shrines, a large library and an extensive garden which contains 5 trees planted by Ramakrishna about 100 years ago.

The afternoon was free time where we just lazed about, and the evening ended with our group meditation and dinner.

The lights were mostly on today, and we requested a tutorial on how to use the water system so maybe tomorrow we will have a tepid plus bath, pitcher to pail Indian style.   Showers are available but only with cold water! Keeps the demand under control.

Going to Kolkata (Dakshineswar)

Day 6: We had a group breakfast and said goodbye to our guide Satish. Because the tickets were originally booked for Rajiv, our guide of trips past who at the last minute was unable to join us this year, KVT had to rebook for Satish and our flight was full. So Satish had to fly out several hours ahead of us.
Marty assumed control of our little group and very successfully ushered us through the airport and luggage queues. We are on our way to a four day retreat at the SRF/YSS ashram in Dakshrineswar.
One thing I have not seen in this part of India that is so evident in the south, is open sewage drains. Thank you! Now to discover what Kolkata will bring.
Later: The YSS ashram is small compared to the US ashrams but so much beauty and devotion is here that the size is irrelevant. Meditation nooks everywhere, a beautiful temple, and mandir with "cave" that Ma used during her visits. We are right on the bank of the Ganges with twinkling city lights across the river and thousands of stars above. The sun set was breathtaking.
The guest rooms are similar to the ones I stayed in last trip. We are three to a room, cotton pads on wood frames, hot water for one hour a day, little floor space but very clean. AND SCREENS! To keep the monkeys out. They are everywhere! Thank goodness I brought a flashlight--after the meditation service this to evening the generator failed.  I almost fell to a serious injury down the marble stairs when in the dark I didn't see the first step. Fortunately Jyosna had forgotten something and was coming back up to collect it and catch me. Strong lady!
I am in heaven!