Out of Himalayas to Rishikesh

Mountains clouded and weeping as we left. So were we.
Raniket for snacks-50 different  forms of masala chips and salt.
Key West size lizard crossed road-broad, no pretty markings.
Two pic stops for hill town shots.
Gas stop next to major rock slide.
School bus full of kids screeching brakes on mountain turn almost hit us on curve-we were stopped and pulled over.
Road washed out majorly in several areas in mountains.
Tree across the road on far side of turn.
Corbett preserve. Lunch tame elephants wild monkeys deer
Pines yielded to broad flat leaves, fl type
Much traffic many bad roads.
Rishikesh 12 hrs later with hot water and warm air!

Old Durga temple and YSS Dwarahat ashram

Immediately after breakfast we jumped back in the bus, and set off for the 3000 year old Durga temple, one of the oldest living temples in India. After purchasing our prayer flags/offerings, we began our ascent up the 490 stairs to the temple. The stairs to the temple had been remade since my prior visit and were now even with a new railing and a canopy all the way to the top of the mountain. The old temple remained the same: brightly painted, majestic views all around, two priests in attendance. I was able to meditate under Lahiri Mahasaya's tree at the tiny Shiva shrine, and am bringing home two prayer flags blessed there, for Tom and myself. The young men working on continuing the canopy up to the temple proper insisted that I take their pictures, and they took one of me in true Indian fascination with swapping photos! Westerners are still rare here.
And the snow capped mountains are still visible!
From the temple, we continued on to the YSS ashram in nearby Dwarahat, where Swami Nirvananada gave us a tour of the new retreat rooms and remodeled dining area. The eye clinic begins tomorrow and they expect to be housing over 80 people including both medical staff and surgical patients. My cough cut my meditation in the chapel short, so I went outside, sucked on some hard candy and continued my meditation on the porch. When I opened my eyes, I saw a huge (chimpanzee size) wild monkey sitting on the wall directly across from me and about four feet away, looking back at me. We looked at each other about a minute, and I swear he nodded at me before he turned to walk away along the wall. A little unnerving but wonderful all at the same time.
Meals outside under the canopy again. The food is so good here that no one misses heat and hot water!

Babaji's cave and Suka Devi Temple

A day of climbing on sacred mountains. Spring colors surrounded us.

After breakfast outside under the canopy, we drove as far as we could toward Babaji's cave. The van driver performed feats that defied imagination. I swear he was driving with two wheels on air most of the way on the half-lane mountain roads. With the road "improvements" our hike was cut in half. But we still had to do the last 1000 feet up on our own, from 7500 to 8500 feet elevation. I had some altitude problems (dizziness, headache, winded quickly)  earlier in the morning but did much better on the climb (caffeine at breakfast all around.) And the climb was easier than five years ago. Many more switch-backs, many more stone stairs and pathways, fewer areas of loose pebbles and dirt. Plus professional signs have replaced the old dots and tiny arrows. A lot of TLC has been given in the past few years to make the cave more accessible. Still, the climb was a challenge, yet all of us made it to our goal. We meditated at the cave and then had prashad at the shrine below the cave. We met two young men headed up as we headed down.

Then this evening we climbed yet again. This time from the retreat up to the peak of the mountain where we had a 360 degree view of the foothills and snow capped Himalayas. Fortunately, Satish our guide misled us about the severity of the climb or most of us would have declined to go! It was worth every step, to watch the sun set from there, at the small temple at the very top of the peak. Every few seconds the colors of the snow caps would shift hues from white to cream to yellow to pink. Breathtaking. Truly breathtaking. Back at 8500 feet.

Nainatal to Dunagiri

Woke up this AM in beautiful Nainital, in an old English inn (once a YMCA hostel) overlooking the lake. Coffee on the terrace, breakfast on the lawn. Joy!
Then, once the bus was loaded, we headed into the town to visit the Devi temple and for quick shopping for shawls. Back onto the bus and on the road up up and up.
We drove past farm after farm. White buildings with blue doors and shutters, deep deep red rhododendrons  growing as trees. Steeply terraced fields with cows and goats on each level. Spring flowers and fruit trees are in bloom everywhere. And we saw what was either a large coyote or small wolf. Whatever India's version is. Rust colored like a red fox but long legs, very narrow torso, and canine head.
In Dwarahat, Marty became suddenly ill (syncopal event) but recovered within a few hours. And wonder of wonders, we were able to see the snow capped Himalayas! Usually they are hidden all day this time of year but not today. We could see them all afternoon. The picture is through the bus window--hoping to get better ones tomorrow.
The retreat we are staying at  in Dunagiri is almost finished. Our rooms and the views of the hills and mountains are spectacular but we have to get hot water from the kitchen for bathing. The rooms are stone and wood and modern. Wonderful layouts. The meals are gourmet vegetarian. The heat is from a wood stove. The outdoor temps are frigid!  Our hosts do not speak much English but fortunately we have Jyoshna with us who is bilingual. Meals are outside under canopies.  I think we are going to enjoy this very much.

Delhi night

Back in Delhi from Ranchi. The airport has much more to appreciate when you don't arrive totally jet lagged!
Despite what you might have been told, adventure is overrated. We went shopping. Surprise. Rose fell flat on some uneven pavement (she is okay) and  Marty had her money stolen by a kid in the shopping area.  We had gone over to the state stores at Connaught to look around. The kid must have been watching her: an older western woman who had wandered off alone, made a purchase, saw where she put her money in the front pocket of her purse. He did a bump and run, and took her money (300 dollars) with him.
What the kid did not know was that Marty was with a group with a State certified guide. She let out a scream, police and Satish came quickly, and the whole crowd at the bus stop became involved. Much shouting again. They knew the boy, and the police know where he lives. There is a chance that some of the money might be recovered. A slight chance.
In the meantime, Marty is choosing to react with an "oh my" instead of an "Oh my God!" She has a plethora of new material for her next book, And so it goes.
Back at the hotel we ate dinner in a very high end restaurant. I ordered the risotto (at American prices) and it was the best I had ever had. Felt like I had been transported magically to a plaza in Verona!
BTW saw Delhi's Starbucks. Lines (of young kids) out the door and down the block waiting to get in. Nescafe beware, freshly ground coffee has arrived!

Delhi Belly (not me!) And on to Nainital

Fred has Delhi belly, ironically, in Delhi! But breakfast is staying put and we are off on a long road trip to Nainital.

We traveled on divided highways, but with so much construction, half the time the other side is closed. We were making good time until we got stuck behind a slow moving vehicle. A horse drawn cart. On an interstate. Sigh. At least it was headed in the correct direction. That cannot be taken for granted.

It took nearly 12 hrs to reach our hotel in Nainital, and this time we got up the final hill without blowing the transmission. YAY! We can see our breath, way up the hill overlooking the lake made from one of Sita's tears. I have no doubt that this was my home in a previous life. My spirit soars here. It feels so familiar. And I can breathe for the first time in a week.

The mountain air is so clean. Heaven sent. AND CELL COVERAGE!
At least for tonight. Tomorrow higher into the hills.

Last Day Ranchi. Friday

This is our last day in Ranchi.
Three members of our group who might not make it to Convocation have joined a silent retreat here for part of the day. The rest of the group, all of whom now have a hotel room to themselves, also had a partial day of silence but in air conditioning. I chose AC! After one last outing to the Kashmiri store where once again a member of our group shopped for museum quality shawls, I did return to the ashram grounds. I wanted one last meditation in PY's room before leaving. We are all meeting up for the evening meditation and supper here, but after our late at afternoon "snack" of dosas, I'm not sure I can eat again!
The dosas pictures are in my camera, but trust me they are humongous.  Subway would have been shocked and put to shame.
We are having to check out of the world's best hotel. Every day they have been delivering complimentary Lays potato chirps, masala cheetos, and sodas to our room. Complimentary chips and soda! American hotels, are you paying attention???
Oops, saw a mosquito. Time to go.